Puncture repair patch which way up




















Edited to clarify — Duncan McGregor. I leave the backing on, to prevent the tube from sticking to the inside of the tire. If it accidentally comes off I apply talc or roadside dust to the patch area to prevent sticking. Reading some of the other comments, I'll note that if your tube is greatly undersized for the tire then leaving the plastic on would amplify the already existing problem of the tube not being able to stretch in the area of the patch.

If the tube is properly sized, however, this should not be an issue. Add a comment. Active Oldest Votes. Improve this answer. Thanks for the excellent reference - I've now accepted 2 answers, and am trialling leaving the plastic on to see if it causes any problems. I'll report back if it does. Could the unrecognizable rectangular object be the end of a tyre lever?

Paul Cote Paul Cote 61 1 1 silver badge 1 1 bronze badge. I've never seen this behavior, and have difficulty imagining it happening with the style of patches I use Park or Rema, generally , since the plastic film is so lightweight.

I'm trusting that you put the patch on right way up? The edges will stick quite well to the inner tube if the glue is good. Kaz Kaz 2, 12 12 silver badges 18 18 bronze badges. Anthony K Anthony K 6, 7 7 gold badges 40 40 silver badges 62 62 bronze badges. I have tried leaving the plastic backing on, but worried that it would prevent the patch from expanding enough with the tube. Plus when I fold the tube to store it, I've wondered if the plastic would pull the patch off I'm very conservative when it comes to fixing tubes - don't want to replace one puncture with another;- Has anyone had any problem leaving the film on?

You should have at least three inner tubes in rotation, so you never put a recently patched tube into service. When you blow tube A out on the road, put on emergency tube B. Then at the earliest opportunity, put tube C that is waiting at home into your emergency kit to replace B. Now, patch A, and put it in storage. At your next blow-out, A will move from storage into your emergency kit, and only on the second blow out will A go into service.

By that time, any chemicals in the repair should long be inert, and the bond should be fully cured. Quite possibly, many months will have passed.

I would really like to see a reference for this leaching effect, since the chemicals that leach. I haven't had too much trouble with freshly patched inner tubes sticking, though. Welcome to the site!

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Featured on Meta. Now live: A fully responsive profile. Version labels for answers. Take your tire lever and hook it around the outer edge of the tire the bead to get it off of the rim. Once you have the tire lever under the tire rubber, hook the other end of your tire lever around one of your spokes to keep the tire elevated. With a second tire lever, work your way around the rim, taking the tire out of the bead until one side has been completely removed from the rim.

There are a couple of different ways to find the leak. The bucket of water method that we mentioned earlier, however, is a more accurate way. Watch for air bubbles escaping from your tire to locate your problem area. Make sure you submerge each side, as there may be more than one puncture. Be sure to check the inside of the tire to make sure that the puncture-causing object has been removed. Once located, mark that spot with your tire marking chalk.

Mail will not be published required. Webmaster: LeslieDeanBrown. Life from an outsider's perspective… How to patch an inner tube the right way. Posted on mayo 15th, Dr. Leslie Dean Brown. This is why you should always have at least one spare inner tube handy when you go on a ride.

Wash your hands. Get all the air out of the tube. The aim is to get the inner tube as flat as possible. Repairing tubes with air still in them is not the best way to do it… the patch usually crumples when the air is out. Clean the whole area of the tube with isopropyl alcohol Isocol to get the butyl rubber residue off. Most people use waaaaay too much glue.

A rough guide is that one of those tiny tubes of rubber cement should last about patches depending on the size of the patch. To give you some idea, start with an amount equal to the size of a split pea. This is easily the most critical step, so pay attention here. Always wait until the glue is dry before applying another coat. When you can feel the glue starting to become tacky, stop smearing.

Remember to apply less glue next time. Be sure to evenly cover the entire surface of the patch, taking care not to omit the edge zones. Done that way, the patch should stick to the tube almost instantly. Having said that, resist the temptation to stick the two together. Let the glue partially dry. Partially means just that — partially. Press the two surfaces together with considerable vertical force and zero horizontal movement. Time for an analogy. Think of the scale.

Molecules move around and vibrate enough as it is without amplifying the problem further. So aim to keep everything still! Patience is the key to a perfect union between humble patch and bicycle inner tube. Let it sit as long as you can to permit those interlinked chemical bonds to form. At least 10 minutes is good.



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