How long should ladder bars be

You might even think of putting some sort of floater on the rear axle, or go old school and put a slider box on the rear spring mount if the situation allows. Post by Sirshredalot » Tue Dec 09, am The car doesnt have any springs right now, but it will be a coil spring set up.

Coil overs are in the future I have access to a coil spring set up but its the non adjustable, universal, competition engineering one, and I have no idea what rate springs they have.

Where would I want to mount the springs than? I can weld in crossmembers to mount the ladder bars to, but I dont know where I would fix the springs. Could they be narrow? Probably just as well to mount them as far apart as possible too. I am going to try to run a " wide tire on this. Post by af2 » Tue Dec 09, am I would mount the coils on top of the housing and as far apart that allows. Being on top of the housing takes any leverage away from the spring and only lets the weight decide the spring weight.

Find the rear weight before you buy springs. Re: 26" ladder bars? Post by Brktracer » Tue Dec 09, pm Sirshredalot wrote: They are 26" from eye to eye and theyre chrome moly. Post by Pacer » Tue Dec 09, pm My ladderbar car ran very consistent, run low to mid 9. On any suspension system you need good adjustable shocks. Lowering the bar tells me it wants slower rotation on the axle housing, I would tighten up the shock and make sure there is no flex in the shock mount.

Post by us7race » Wed Dec 10, am Brktracer wrote: Sirshredalot wrote: They are 26" from eye to eye and theyre chrome moly. Post by Bubstr » Thu Dec 11, am I may as well throw my. First thing is ladder bars have an instant center it is the front eyelet of the bar.

They also have a neutral line. It runs from the rear tire contact patch to a spot above front wheel centerline at the hight of the center of gravity. If your eyelet is above this line you get rebound in the rear, below you get compression. Ideal is to have neither. When you have either of these two, that is when your bar length comes to play. The longer bar slows these and shorter speeds them up. This is why cars that aren't set well like longer bars and adjustable shocks, to cure problems for the most part.

The advantages of mounting bars and springs as far from the longitudinal roll center is side control with lighter rate springs. This should be a compromise with the rate you need for front to rear weight transfer. So if you mount them to far inboard, You can give up the spring rate you need to control roll and oscillation, giving tire shake a free pass. Hey Big Chief do you have any up to date pics of the rambler???? Joined: Feb 26, Posts: 2, Profile Page. Don the ladder bars on your car seem to work ok!!!

Joined: Jun 12, Posts: Profile Page. I did 60 inch on my 60 falcon. Im going 63 inch on the 65 Comet Im building parralel with crossmember. These I plan to shackle so as to have some axle movement. Joined: Nov 5, Posts: 2, Profile Page. HotRod28AR , Oct 12, Joined: Feb 24, Posts: 1, Profile Page. Hey Carkiller, on your 60 Falcon, how did the chassis react with that long of a bar? I've heard that too short a bar will bounce the rear from too violent of upward thrust on the body.

The 61 Falcon gasser i'm building will be about lbs and i'm hoping for Joined: Oct 12, Posts: 7, Profile Page. I am awaiting more info on this as well. We are gathering a few parts together to build a 62 Falcon nose-up. Joined: Oct 21, Posts: 2, Profile Page.

The bars we put on the pickup I had at the pileup were 4', we made them out of 1" square tube. Nothing fancy but they work. Cliffy , Oct 12, Joined: Aug 18, Posts: 30 Profile Page.

I would like to see your Falcon when your done. I am friends with Don H. I have a 66 Mustang that I used to race with a and Jerico 4 speed. Many of the parts are in Don's Mustang now. I plan on running about a inch bar or going with a setup similar to the 64 Thunderbolt setup that was a lift bar.

I believe they were around 36 inches. Still trying to find that info. But the longer the bar the softer it hits the tires, which helps save parts and actually makes it hook more consistent. You also need good shocks that are adjustable and a good set of springs.

It's not just the bar that makes your suspension work. Good luck with the Falcon. When it's done we will have to see if that Mopar small block can outrun a real Ford. Ha Ha. Dustin Cottrell , Oct 12, Joined: Sep 28, Posts: 1, Profile Page.

These are off of Eric's 55, 70" long Thompson ProEnfo , Oct 12, Dirty Don's "Filthy 42" ProEnfo , Oct 13, Long bars should work fine, in fact, the longer the better in a lot of ways. Most ladder bars are short just because the short ones fit easier.

Same reason headers have dinky little collectors on them. They fit better that way, doesn't mean they work better. IMO I would go the route that would be the easiest install. I see no real reason to run such a long ladder bar. Remember the ladder bar will always be in motion. It just makes more since to me to have some in the " range, and they will work just fine. The added weight, and difficult to install would be real draw backs in my book for long ones like that. Print Thread Switch to Threaded Mode.

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